How-to Make a Stitch Bible

DECORATIVE STITCHES--PAGE 15

Have you....
been wondering how to begin that huge task of stitching out
ALL
those decorative stitches to have them available to refer back to;
when making a project that relies heavily on using more stitches?

Problem: When will you have time to get a stitch bible made?

Solution: Why not add only those stitches that you want to try when starting a new project.

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I had not made a complete stitch bible before; and really the idea of trying something new, was what got me started. So with quilting entering the "ART" world, it may be time to stretch your creative talents, even further.

"A great time to stitch them out is when we purchase a new sewing machine. This gives us time to explore and experience what all it can do for us. But, many times that just doesn't happen. So we stick with only 2 or 3 familiar stitches which does not allow us to explore all the great features we had liked about that machine."

Therefore, if you haven't done that when your machine was new, why not consider making a stitch bible now. There are many projects available... especially aimed at getting more out of your machine.

EXPLORING STITCH POSSIBILITIES

Shortly after this sampler was made, my machine jammed and stopped any further progress on my waiting-list of projects. However, after about four weeks, I really had to change this, and couldn't wait any longer for repairs to happen to my machine. (It still is waiting to be looked at; and thus, am glad I found a replacement when I did, so I could continue sewing.)

With a new machine, I got the opportunity to try out ALL the stitches in this stitch bible that I will share with you now. I love the creative process and the designers that have found new ways for all of us to utilize our fancy sewing machines.


MY VERSION OF A STITCH BIBLE

In order to have more flexibility, I decided to use a three-ring binder and clear protective sleeves to put my pages in, once they were prepared.

This will allow you to finish the edges of each page with whatever method you desire; once they have been completed. And then, you may continue to use the binder; or create a soft version with grommets to join the pages into a stitch bible. But, as you work on them, they can be contained in a binder, as shown below.

Following the example of a lined loose-leaf sheet of paper, I marked my fabric page with a left (3/4") and right margin (3/4"), and a top margin (1"). After marking the three sections of the page (to separate variations in the stitch length/width); then proceeded with drawing horizontal lines (3/4" to 1" apart) for using as my stitching lines.


HOW-TO MAKE A STITCH BIBLE

1.)
Cut one piece of medium to heavy weight fusible interfacing and one plain cotton fabric piece to the same size; then fuse interfacing to wrong side of fabric. (Make as many of these pages as you require.)

My pieces were cut to: 8" x 11". My plan was to use grommets and bind the edges; however, while I was deciding on page size, etc., I decided to use the binder to keep track of my pages.

INTERFACING & FABRIC

2.) 
Using a rotary ruler and Hera marker, it was easy to draw lines on the page for the stitch samples. These guidelines would allow perfect placement on each page.

I first drew a line 3/4" from the edge of the fabric on both sides of the page (left and right margins). This line extended the complete distance from top edge to the bottom edge of the page. 

MARKING THE MARGINS ON EACH PAGE

3.)
Since we will use the default settings of each stitch; and perhaps, two variations I marked three sections to help me see when to change my stitch length/width, while sewing. Then, I drew on the horizontal lines on which I would easily be able to add my stitches in a straight and even line along each row.  (These are from 3/4" to 1" apart. Some pages had less row of stitches.)

My markings allowed for a two-inch distance for each of two variations; and a slightly longer distance of 2-1/2" for the default setting.

DISTANCE BETWEEN MARKED LINES

4.) 

Once my pages were ready, I proceeded to fill each line with beautiful stitches. Each stitch going on the line that matched its number. With the center mark of the foot on the line, you can easily see how wide it spreads and this can be helpful when deciding if a stitch will fit on a specific project.

I kept track of my number count, and added them after the page was done; however, if you only have time to make a few stitches at a sitting, write the numbers on each page; and then you can enter any decorative stitch at the proper location, no matter how many or few stitches you have made on the page previously. (I stitched from 1 to 201.)

CLOSEUP OF NUMBERED LINES

5.)
Once my pages were done, I paired them together to serge the edges. I had not used my serger in quite some time; and wanted to liberate the machine from its confinement, in its box. (If binding the edges with a satin cord, use a heavy-weight interfacing.)

Finished pages are placed into the clear, page protectors and added to the binder. My machine manual is placed in the back pocket of the binder. There is a clear pocket on the front of the binder to place a cover page. (I can't show you because it isn't there yet.)

I have used it many times, already; to check out what stitches might fit a special location on an applique or quilt block. Now that I finally have a working machine, proper cording foot, and the satin cord, I really want to get to making my next project using my stitch bible. (So many cool projects to try, just need to clear my work table and get started...)

FINISHED PAGES INSERTED INTO COVERS

My Color Coded Pages:

1. Brown: Utility Stitches
2. Orange: Quilt Stitches
3. Purple: Needle-Art Stitches
4. Green: Satin Stitches
5. Peach: Decorative Stitches
6. Yellow: Characters (lettering)
7. Pink: Sewing techniques 

EXTRA NOTES:

• Left margin: This margin gives adequate spacing if adding grommets, later.
• Right margin: This margin allows marked lines to be numbered before stitching is added. (Allowing you to add stitches in the correct order; without having to complete every line, at the same sitting.)
• Spacing of lines: This distance is adequate for adding the name of the decorative stitch above the stitched row, if desired.
• The size of the page will fit into a clear page protector, as it fits an 8-1/2" x 11" sheet of paper.
• The distance of my lines were dependent upon the number of stitches I wanted to fit on each page; as I had planned to use a different fabric color for each grouping of stitches. (ie. brown: utility stitches)

STITCH BIBLE

Go on now... you can make one too!

FOR AN AWESOME PROJECT that teaches you how to make a very functional stitch bible with grommets and a cord binding edge, and utilize all those decorative stitches, visit HERE.

I am enrolled in this class, and am enjoying the potential that the teaching has provided. 

How-to Make Your Own 'Pieced Fabric'

Need a fabric that is unique,

to add extra dimension, 

or for when you just cannot find that perfect shade?

Why not make your own fabric pieces? It's easy and fun!!

Cut them into:
(1) squares to use as blocks; (2) into the shapes needed for applique designs; or (3) use them in the borders of your quilts, for added interest.

PIECED FABRIC SECTIONS

STANDARD GUIDELINES
In string quilts...
the narrow strips are generally sewn onto a lighter weight fabric or interfacing. The block is then trimmed to fit size requirements. This is also especially helpful when working with strips placed in a diagonal direction or pieces that are cut on the bias, keeping pieces from being stretched out of shape.

TRIMMED BLOCK (9" X 9")

However, if you are working with strips that are not placed diagonally, or the backing size is not an issue; you can skip the extra fabric layer. 

CONTINUE JOINING SECTIONS
FOR LONGER PIECES

You may just wish to sew strips together and store them for later projects. (Care should always be taken in every project, when pressing seams.)

THE HOW-TO METHOD for APPLIQUE

Scrappy designs come out beautiful no matter how the colors are put together. So have fun making some colorful appliques for your next project.

METHOD:

1. Start by selecting a particular color family or group of colors. 
2. Because each strip is cut from scrap fabrics, arrange the strips into stacks with similar lengths. (This makes the sewing process more efficient.) 
3. Lay out the strips next to your machine, whether in a particular order or at random, that you wish sew together. (This may be the whole stack and save some for later use, or a chosen few to match the size required for an applique project.)

STEPS:

1. Begin with two strips... with right sides facing each other, sew them together using a quarter-inch seam allowance. (You may use either a regular or scant quarter inch for applique templates.) 
2. Then lightly finger press the seams open. These seams will later be pressed flat with an iron. However, as you sew, you do not need to press each one, as you  assemble them. Work with the selected fabrics until all have been joined together. 
3. Carefully press all the seams open; and tidy up the seam allowances from dangling threads.
4. Now your piece is ready for the correct placement of the appliques. 

WAYS TO JOIN COLORS:

• Alternating two colors in the same color family.
• Selecting a set number of fabrics and repeating the pattern.
• Selecting a color family and using a variety of different fabrics.
• Using colors at random, making the section with a range of colors.

My Recommendations:

                                                                                                                                            

ADDING APPLIQUE

(1.)  
For pieced-fabric appliques: seams should always be pressed open.

This allows the fusible web to hold down all the seams neatly; and enables the backing paper to lift more easily when ready to separate from the fusible fabric.

RELEASING PAPER

(2.)
To release the paper from the back, I use the tip of the seam ripper to release an edge, (before cutting out the applique) as once it is fused to the fabric, it is really difficult to remove easily. Make a pencil mark at this location so it is easier to find the loosened edge.

(I do this when using Pellon 805 Wonder-Under transfer web.)



(3.)

Stitch lengths to use while you work on your project.

  <> Stitching seams:  I now use a (1.5) stitch length.

  <> Quilting the quilt layers:  A (2.5 or 3.0) stitch length works well for stitch-in-the ditch, outlining appliques, etc.

  <> Feel free to use free-motion quilting to quilt your project. (I still need to try this; however, it looks like that may still be in my bucket list in 2015.)

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Butterfly Applique Picture Tutorial

(A.)  Sew five strips together to form the pieced-fabric section needed for this butterfly. (Hopefully you can see the fabrics in this photo, as black is difficult to photograph.)

(A.)  BLACKS SEWN TOGETHER

(B.)  The butterfly has been cut out of the pieced-fabric section, seams pressed open, fusible web applied, and paper released. (It is now ready to place on the quilt block.)

(B.)  WRONG SIDE OF APPLIQUE

(C.)  In this finished project, the appliques have been fused, stitched on with an applique stitch, and an outline stitch added around each applique; to join the three layers of the quilt.

RIGHT SIDE OF BUTTERFLY

If you wish to make this free mini quilt, you can check out the tutorial and download the free PDF pattern at the website. 


Enjoy a new experience down this creative path....